Bodega Cerron, El Cerrico 2022

The nose of the 2021 El Cerrico, their only white to date (there should be more white wines in the future) from ungrafted and dry-farmed old vines, is reminiscent of a grand cru Burgundy/Jura, flinty and smoky, a little reductive, spicy, with notes of curry and talcum powder. It has contained ripeness and moderate alcohol (13%), an incredibly low pH (2.93), vibrant acidity, lip-smacking freshness and great depth, complexity and length with a very tasty, chalky and salty finish. It has energy, vigor and light, precision and depth. The wine has not moved; it feels very young and undeveloped. In 2017, they couldn't produce the wine because of frost. The vines suffered and slowly recovered, and in 2021, they reached the maximum production: 2,500 bottles produced. It was bottled in November 2022. This is clearly about the place, not about the variety.